For most pro surfers, their personal zeniths are marked by very tactile moments — a win or a result, a contract or a cover shot, a movie or an edit — that are so ephemeral, they belie the many years of fiendish passion and concentrated focus that went into that bit of success.
There are a few, however, who age so gracefully, evolve so seamlessly, and live so healthily, we can’t help but suspect that pro surfing was never intended to be the thing in the first place. It’s the thing to get you to the thing. A fulcrum to transition into the life you’ve always dreamed of living. Follow the link here to read the entire article from Surfline.