Surfline premieres inaugural film starring Koa Rothman, Brett Barley, Albee Layer, Nic Von Rupp and Zak Noyle.
For most pro surfers, their personal zeniths are marked by very tactile moments — a win or a result, a contract or a cover shot, a movie or an edit — that are so ephemeral, they belie the many years of fiendish passion and concentrated focus that went into that bit of success.
There are a few, however, who age so gracefully, evolve so seamlessly, and live so healthily, we can’t help but suspect that pro surfing was never intended to be the thing in the first place. It’s the thing to get you to the thing. A fulcrum to transition into the life you’ve always dreamed of living. Follow the link here to read the entire article from Surfline.
“Honestly, before that wave I was having one of the worst sessions I’ve ever had at Pipe,” Meister said. “Didn’t catch a single wave for over two hours, wore a ton of Second and Third Reef roll-ins on the head, and felt like I was underwater more then I was above [laughs]. I broke my leash bailing on another cleanup set. I got to the beach and thought about calling it quits, but I just couldn’t end the session without catching a single wave. Ulu boy let me borrow a leash and I paddled back out. I tried to catch a little three-footer and got caught in the lip and had to pencil dive. Then wore a thick six-foot double-up Pipe wave on the head that felt like the it was trying to push me through the reef. Paddled back out super frustrated, then got that Backdoor wave — and it made all those beatings worth it! Gotta love Pipeline.”
Jaws at any size is a sight to behold — especially given the leaps in performance over the years. And while last weekend’s swell was hindered by a less-than-ideal storm track, there was no shortage of craziness on Sunday at Maui’s most famous big wave. See all the madness at Surfline.com on the "One Fine Weekend Feature.