NEWS FROM THE MISSION

“My friend called and said there were some pretty decent barrels hitting a sandbar next to Rockpile,” said Barley. “I grabbed some lunch and went to give it a look, and was surprised to see a ton of sand had piled up making the waves basically shorebreak — like you could walk almost to the impact zone.
It was pretty inconsistent, but now and then a couple would hit just right and grind. It had similar shape to how some bars get at home, so i was amping! I surfed a few hours and found some fun ones, but nothing special till I lucked into that bigger one at dark. It looked pretty walled up, and I thought I might be too deep, but then it backed off a bunch as I bottom turned and I ended up in the perfect spot. It shaped up so square right as it started to spit and hit the shallow part of the bar.
I love the unique shape a shallow bar like that can give a wave. And getting a good sand setup like that on the North Shore is rare, so all the boys were enjoying it. Not to mention it was the first day of any barrels in two+ weeks! Felt good to finally spend a session hunting some tubes instead of air sections. Hopefully that sand clears out, though, so we can see some real waves in the coming days and weeks.”

Taylor Knox double barrel at Kelly Slater's wave garden. The Dream is Real.

There is nothing I love more than surfing at home... no matter where I've traveled in the world, I can never wait to get back and share empty lineups with my friends. I've been in a habit of blasting clips all over social media the day i get them... and recently was asked to hold onto some stuff for a Surfline article. Well, once Jeffery O'Neil and I got to holding clips, I figured they'd be better served in a full edit instead of a bunch of insta clips.

Follow link to see whole story at Surfline.